the first climb we did is called The Nutcracker, 5.8+. its located next to El Capitan on a much smaller cliffline called the Manure Pile. ;) come on.. that's funny! it has an AWESOME short approach, like 10 minutes. most times, long trad climbs have this crazy long approach that takes hours, uphill with sketchy scrambles over loose rock. ;) i was quite content with such a short hike to reach the base of the climb. another bonus, we were the first ones there! we started around 9am. we were done climbing at 230p. the hike down took about an hour. not too shabby!
in the middle of the bottom, you'll see the Manure Pile, and the dotted line of the Nutcracker
Pitch 1: huge underclinging flake with a decent belay on top.
jason is "crouched" (or underclinging) at the top of the bookcase-sized flake
Pitch 2: easy gulley scramble to a huge ledge belay.
Pitch 3: super cool flake crack system to a bad small ledge belay.
jason is at the top of the crack system
Pitch 4: difficult (but fun!) moves to pull over an awkward bulge to yet another bad small ledge belay.
Pitch 5: really cool (and exciting) mantle onto a ledge, where if you didnt make it, you could take a potentially very bad fall back onto slab. Top out and finish the climb!
My feet were KILLING me by the end. jason pointed out that i wasnt sitting on the anchor stations. instead i was still on my feet. ha! i guess i wasnt trusting the anchors ;) ok, so noted for next time - save my feet!
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