Thursday, July 21, 2011

who knew it rained so much in the desert

Mill Creek is  this beautiful climbing spot that's known only to a small group of people who have a special high-5 handshake that is taught after a long and grueling initiation process..  i kid you not.  ;)  but, no really, when you mention "Mill Creek", most people havent heard of it.  this place isnt on the map, except on a couple covers of climbing magazines.  there is no guidebook, there is no topo -- why am i not surprised?!!  the names of the climbs and their estimated ratings are spread word-of-mouth from person to person.  if you're willing to do some research, MAYBE you can piece together something off mountainproject.  or just maybe you'll truly luck out as we did, and find someone who knows the place and is willing to show you around.  moab-jason was so so so kind to do this for us!  (he barely even climbed, he mostly played tour guide and photographer.  thank you so much jason!)

the crag is located just outside moab, maybe a 30 min drive into the mountains, which means the temps are cooler.  score!  you drive this Lasal Mountain loop road and pull off into the "parking area", which isn't even a pull off .. the road actually just widens a little bit.  how and where people park during a busier time .. i have no idea.  also, you have to know where the trailhead is bc the trees look the same.  there is no indication there is a trail there!  the short approach is fairly easy .. unless it rains because then its a huge mudslide, and i mean huge.  our second day was cut short by rain, and i learned for myself just how slippery that mud can be!  you walk into the main area and already you can see the beauty of the place.  the walls of climbing follow a creek, and there is climbing on both sides.  you cross the creek from one side to another by walking over these dead trees that act as bridges.. sometimes a little scary, but they work well :)  the climbing here is super fun!  my best description would be mostly vertical or slightly overhung walls with nice incut pockets and awesome feet!

warmup - awesome incut crimps and great feet!


super awesome climb!  follow the crack / flake..

jason is putting up the draws

move from one side to the other


such a beautiful climb!

 my turn

just enough overhang to bring on a little pump

here we go .. layback some more

there's a bat, yes a bat, at that last gear placement!  (its a mixed climb)

cool looking rock - really, really awkward climb

streaked rock (jason is blending in at the top right)

crossing logs to get from one side to the other

jason's velociraptor impression!  overgrown trails ;)

moab-jason!!

good ole regular jason!




really fun face climb :)


up the creek .. luckily jason made it safely ..

isnt it pretty?


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